Sir Paul Smith, the fashion industry's richest men, enthusiastic art collectors and members of the rock band elite circle of honor (good friend of David Bowie and Eric Clapton)-two years ago, sold 40% of its market value after its own brand, the old boy did not retire for years their own brands. In July this year, his flagship store in Notting Hill CR (Westbourne House) celebrates its 10-year anniversary of opening of the Memorial. This store is designed to be an elegant and luxurious apartments, can be said to be dream portrayal of Smith himself. He admitted that so far every time you walked into the shop, he would shiver with excitement. And his friend Manolo Blahnik specially for this day and he designed a series of limited edition products, including watercolors, hand-painted plates, jewelry and vintage radio.
60 year old big boySmith of just over 60 animated and had no desire to retire. "In fact, I now have no special plan, including retirement. I don't want myself to be of little value, but for now, everything is fine, as long as the step by step on the line. "Every time I returned to his Office after a holiday, Smith always conceal his joy. London swing long live life! "I love my wife, I love my job, just be a trade-off between the two. "He said. He used to get up at 6:30 A.M. swimming, went to work, shuttling his messy Office located close to Covent Garden. In his briefcase was lying in a small electric train, which carried some unintelligible "goods" lonely circles. "When I was meeting with important customers get bored when I take it out and spend time, especially in Japan, Wei said, those birds I don't understand a Word. "He laughed, proudly shaking neck. His friends say he is "crazy".Paul Smith I like very much this evaluation. Many of his practices also reflect this assessment is correct, for example, his own so-called "day tours" always talked about. "I went to the Office of the company is located in Delhi, was there for only one day.I can be on the same day to the great wall of China and Viet Nam this two places to go sightseeing. My favorite ' day tour ', in Moscow in the morning, afternoon in St Petersburg, has arrived in New York in the evening. I'm a busy person-I have few ways to travel. ”In his Office, there is a large Brown plush monkey, Paul Smith called it "Office Manager". And although age is not small, the designer every time when I went into the showroom, and always filled with joy like a kid broke into the candy store. His staff often cheeky laugh watching him do these things-obviously, Paul Smith likes his job.
Japan tourBehind the naughty personality, Smith is a smart businessman. So far, he would have served as the brand's Chief Executive Officer, President and Director of design. Since 1970, founding date, the brand has opened stores in 35 countries around the world, annually, including the wholesale, retail, and trademark licensing revenue turnover more than £ 280 million.The funny thing is, as a thoroughly British brand, Paul Smith's most important markets in Asia, especially in Japan where, it could be used as idol worship. England's Paul Smith store a total of 14, and only Japan, they have opened more than 200 stores. Every year for the brand to nearly half of the turnover outside Japan this country have long said Smith's Companion."Back in 1982, I received an invitation to visit Japan. Then I opened a second store in London for three years only. "He said. He himself was a very good for clothes, particularly suitable for wearing his designed-beautiful Plaid cowboy shirt, trousers topped with a pair of brown suede shoes, revealing a light purple sock. "Sogo shosha Itochu has always concerned me-their job is to search in the local brand to make money. Japanese very much look forward to young European designers to shop in their countries. I actually wanted to go to the name ' Japan ' place to play. So when I was invited when was bowing. ”Smith's timing was just right. 1980 is Japan fashion Tycoon outbreak era, new attitude of the younger generation, as well as the rapid development of the economy as he did countless opportunities for young designers in Europe. "At that time, a large number of designers have received visiting Japan at the invitation of, but most of them to Japan have no respect for, but as a money-making machine in the country. I told them just the opposite. When I was only 8 years, for me, this is a great opportunity. I took my wife Pauline went to Osaka, with Itochu people meet. ”Japan saw, Paul was startled. "Met for the first time it is de-energised. The company has only three employees. They never opened the shop, do not have any business experience, they do not advertise, do not understand magazine film-all essential things in the fashion industry in Europe and all of them do not understand. They have never done sock or shirt-they are traditional tailoring. The company specializes in older men's fashion, style is simple. ”However, Smith is concerned, Japan is really a very attractive opportunity. From that point on, he started with the national "lifelong" close relations. "I was very young, very eager. I will go to factories several times a year, because I think this is the key to success. I also specifically for the Japan market design products. First I was hit do not know-there are so many things to learn. But for them, too, the knowledge they needed remedial classes on modern fashion market also needs to learn more about me at this point, we are common. I can't speak Japanese, but I am good at communication. I am always energetic, lively, and it helped me break the barrier. ”It is the truth. He inherited from his father a gift-wild gestures, distinctive facial expressions, showing a keen sense of humor. You may find it hard to resist the allure. "The Japanese from the past to the present has been the United Kingdom cultural enthusiasm. With the United Kingdom is particularly closely related to music, they know that I know, David Bowie, David Hockney who?? So when they meet me, or buy a Paul Smith products when it feels as if they and I happened across Europe as a link.All over the worldIn 1984, Paul Smith in Tokyo was Japan's first store. "The Agency has lost money in the first three years," he said, "but to them, it doesn't matter. Japanese business relations with Europe are totally different. All they care about is not just money-of course it does matter. They are willing to establish long-term business relations, to give you time to get to know the market. As long as you show that you know what you are doing, they will trust you and support your opinion. By the year IV, v, Paul Smith began to make money. ”Whether Paul Smith also Itochu did not look back. From 2004 to 2005, Paul Smith, in Japan sales were up 10%. In 2006, Itochu acquired his 40% brand assets, including his wife, and he is one of the most important directors of its stake. Sir Paul retaining 60% assets, but it also looks a bit pale-he built the entire system has cracks. In the past 15 years, almost all of the famous luxury brands have come, with large sums of money to seek cooperation, but all failed, however, Smith finally fell. "Obviously, we can effortlessly connect to open 25 stores, like Jil Sander, however we take note of the lessons learned. "(Prada acquired Jil Sander, which twice forced to split with its brand, including most recently a re-sale). "I have been to Japan in recent times," he said, "where I have my own Office, it is completely independent of the company, this means that Paul Smith for his goal completely with domination. We have always been in control of brand image, is responsible for the new position, controlling the commercial shoot. This approach is unique. ”Japan zhihou, Paul Smith moves into Korea and Singapore. "We are in Korea has 16 stores, good value millions of. In Singapore, we have two stores in Bangkok also have two and, in addition, we have counters in Hong Kong. "He said. Every shop Paul Smith's style is unique. Los Angeles flagship shop is a building bright pink of modern doctrine buildings, Osaka of "quiet heaven shop" where of building is built Yu 1956, predecessor is a shrines shop, and in New York, "16 years Qian shop just opened Shi, many live in United States of British run to asked we sold not sold Ma's chocolate rod (MarsBar, United Kingdom Mars from 1932 began production of a with name of chocolate rod), but for local food health security of Ordinance provides, we can't so dry. ” Born in the cityWhere this was not young designers get a steady flow of energy? "I love life. I like to keep a variety of things, like being an interesting person. Every day, at 6:30 A.M., I will go swimming, then go to a regular café to eat toast with Marmite spread sauce. On my way to work, I always stop at the old Kang Hampton Street, followed by a road Sweeper chat-he is so good, was a Poland people. We are about the same person. I never look at myself as a brand-Paul Smith but it will take much more than that. "Milan, Florence and Paris, where Smith is working daily to go. So for him, the best place is with my family over the weekend. During these two days, he insisted that far from the noisy celebrity debutante and big dinner. "Friday night, I and a few close friends and my wife Pauline went to London's River Caf é eat dinner together," he said, "that will get me into the weekend State. The price of this place is not cheap, not much I think it's worth it, because the food was impeccable. "" I was very enthusiastic about life, I like all kinds of sports, especially swimming. On weekdays, I always go to the swimming pool at 6:30 A.M., but on the weekends, I go to 8:30, go to an old-school gentleman's Club where I have swimming-there are more leisure atmosphere. Fitness Center is too boring for me, so I never consider participating. ”And breakfast for the weekend may be only reading the week Smith a chance. "I sat down for coffee with Pauline, eating toast, look at the weekend edition of the newspaper-I is a three-minute heat, not read. "He said. Even on days off, he likes to keep himself busy, lunch is often on the way to an art exhibition just resolved. Recently made him interested in Waterloo Station sprinkling Festival, held in the disused tunnel near Leake Street, organizer is Banksy and several other artists. Tate Modern Art Museum (The Tate Modern), is the most frequented room. "Even if I don't work on the weekends, this does not mean that as a designer, I would not work. I'm always looking for fresh inspiration from, say, a painting or look for new colors in space. "He said.Smith also admitted that he was interested in countryside is not. "I was like living in the city. I am always very happy to stay at home on Sunday evening. Our House is very comfortable and I can find-there is never a show just for showing off. Pauline Cook, we eat very simple. I never watch TV at home, but love to watch old movies. Occasionally, we will also cinema, especially when there's there is a work of Fellini film. I sat at home, listen to radio four programmes. "Just like an ordinary United Kingdom citizens.For Smith, the weekend is the most exciting thing to spend time with his wife. Although early venture together, but they were married until 2000. Paul Smith now has three grandchildren, two of them less than 10 years old, at the weekend to see if they are always doing what he loves the most. "I like to play games with them or watch them skate-that they can call me big boy. "He said."I never thought of it," this was his first reaction to the age and years. In contrast, he prefers to talk about reality, not the remembrance of things past, even more strongly to predict the future. "I'm always optimistic, life is so short, I don't want your love goes on, but the objective law should not be changed. I am old, but still young. ” "Fashion is not just design"Paul Smith for his popular does not care. He's a very pragmatic person, Joker, confident of their style is sometimes, and sometimes attacking. The reason, probably because of his nature and the external is not exactly the same. Simply put, he was by accident into the fashion world. In the Robert Altman film the cloud Chang storm (Pret-a-Porter), we saw with Paris fashion week as the epitome of world-filled with fickle fashion supermodel, pride strong photographers, malevolent designers and the extreme world of servile fashion editor. PaulSmith is the opposite of this hard-working, taking care of affairs?? Put simply, is to make clothes and sell clothes.
B= the BundPS=Paul SmithClothing in order to express themselvesB: "what is clothing make the man, still makes clothing? Many people do not believe that the importance of fashion.PS: well, I think the clothing is part of self expression, it can demonstrate your individuality and uniqueness-"I'm a serious person," "I'm funny", "I'm cool", or "I am sexy". What I mean is, uniform uniform to tell you: "I am very ill. "They really achieve this kind of effect. Pilots ' uniforms to make them look more trustworthy, boarded the plane passengers have confidence in them. Can you imagine a man in shorts and a baseball cap on his head pilot? He will make you feel a bit uncomfortable. Therefore, the dress is really useful.B: well said. Though beautifully designed clothing is really, as some people say art?PS: no, I don't think so. I think they are just part of self expression.From carpentry to designerB: in youth, you are interested in the fashion industry? MIKIBANA close to the source of fashion weak effectsPS: I never thought I'd be in the fashion industry. I then I want to be a biker. I got his first bike at age 11. Cyclists are the things that I really want. I had an accident, femur fracture, so had to give up the dream. I was 17 years old.The funny thing is, after discharge, I occasionally find a club, all in the United Kingdom to study art student falls in love with there. I started with the young graphic designers, artists, architects, fashion designers, and so, I became interested in fashion. MIKIBANA close to the source of fashion weak effectsB: you are in school of art student? PS: at school, the only thing I do well is woodworking-really is a very strange item. No one encouraged me to an interest in the arts. My father had a small workshop at home, he was always there and do things with wood and metal. He also is an amateur photographer, once I model all kinds of funny photos-such as I dressed as a super hero, then this photo with another photo, made me look like flying in the air.B: that since the discovery of the Club and how long it takes, and you start to be in the fashion industry? How do you do that?PS: crash after a few years, I decided to enter the fashion industry. First I was in a clothing store as a clerk, and six years later, I met Pauline-in my "partner"-she encouraged me to open my own business. So after saving a small fortune, I opened its first store in 1970.From play to workB: your first shop was in Nottingham, is it?PS: that's right. Is very small.B: what's first shop name?PS: it is called "Paul Smith", but has also been marked in French "men" (Vetement pour Homme). In this way, I wish to associate their brands with it was distinguished from other shops in Nottingham.B: so, you are doing at the very cool.PS: Yes, it's unusual. In fact, nobody likes the clothes in my shop because they were so different. I only open on Friday and Saturday. The rest of the week, I do another job to support themselves, and then two days, and I enjoy selling my very interesting costume fun. Lucky is that I don't have to rely on the store live.B: it looks like you worked at that time was less serious, than you are to play.PS: that's right. But I began to slowly step by step designs its own, take control of works. My girlfriends Pauline fashion designer trained, she has helped me a lot."Soon people will take your"B: you are in Asia, particularly Japan, is very popular. What do you think is the reason for this success?PS: our PR Kumi in Tokyo is a great help to me-I started the Sun had got to know her. She asked me to make a lot of interesting journalists and graphic designers, so from the beginning, I had the opportunity to get my personality across to the public, and they are readily accepted. Apparently, my clothes, my character, my work, and I've been to Japan and Asia, so many times – all of these make up the effects now. Not exaggerating, I think it was my personality at work.B: so, as a "designer", you have to do much more than "design."PS: of course. In this competitive world, I should be concerned about more than just clothes, but need to respond quickly to new things, always be vigilant, never thought they had succeeded. The most dangerous moment in the fashion industry, is your back comfortably in his chair back, thinking: "I went to Vogue, I was on the TV. "Will soon get someone to replace you.B: so you really can't get a break?PS: never! Either stop, or 100% to work. You can't give attention to 70%, then someone else will replace you.B: you must be very pleased with the pace of work.PS: Unfortunately, I have to participate in a large part of the work, many of which are not as interesting as making clothes. But I'm always fully involved in the design, because I Kings were counted only 6 Assistant, had to make countless dress.B: If you published a piece about you to others, or your clothes, your style, what would you say?PS: well, I think I'm going to say, you have to learn to relax and live at the same time, you must also realize that "you can do it. "So, anything will be possible.
SMITHPaul fashion design Japan fashion friends